9.7.08

Les Boulangeries-Pâtisseries de Paris: Gèrard Mulot

...and his recette pour Financiers

In one corner of the toney VI ième arrondissement, near the beginning of the VII ième arrondissement, and in the shadows of l'église-Saint-Sulpice (the church made famous by Dan Brown's fiction, "The DaVinci Code" in the quartier St.-Germain-des-Près is one of the finest boulangeries-pâtisseries in Paris, Gèrard Mulot. Also nearby is the palais du Luxembourg, home to the French Sénat and surrounded by le jardin du Luxembourg.

Born in the Vosges region of northeastern France in 1949, Mulot says simply that pastry captured his imagination because "when I was young, my mother always made me the most delicious cakes." In 1971 he joined Dalloyau, the old-guard Paris chocolatier and pastry house, where, as a floater, he learned every aspect of his métier.

Mulot likes to experiment with flavor combinations, yet refrains from becoming too avant garde. An example of his experimentation is his orange-cinnamon macarons. (Macarons in France (notice the slight difference in spelling), are very different from the coconut macarOOns of the U.S. In France, macarons are little almond meringue sandwiches filled with various flavors of ganache.) The beauty alone of the products in his showcases make a trip to Gèrard Mulot worthwhile, but sampling the offerings here will confirm that the baked goods here taste as good as they look.

Downstairs from the sales area is the workroom, staffed by as many as 15 pâtissiers et boulangers, many of whom began their work day at 3:30 a.m.

While famous for his pâtisserie and for his chocolates (and unlike many pâtisseries), Mulot also produces very fine breads. (The skill set for boulangerie is different than that for pâtisserie, so it is not particularly common to find a shop skilled in both. Gèrard Mulot is one of the exceptions having both very fine pâtisserie et boulangerie.

In addition to le pain et la pâtisserie, Mulot offers beautifully-crafted chocolates and a small selection of items found at un traiteur (caterer). There is a tiny coffee bar at the back of the store where you can enjoy a fine espresso along with your choice of treats. One of the more popular of the small treats sold here are financiers, for which Louis la Vache will now give you Gèrard Mulot's own recette.

À table!

Financiers
Oven 450º F (230º C)
Financier molds, greased with vegetable shortening

INGRÉDIENTS:
7 ounces butter (200 grams)
1 1/2 cups sugar (350 grams)
1/3 cup + 2 Tablespoons flour (100 grams)
1/4 cup ground almonds (50 grams)
2 Tablespoons ground hazelnuts (15 grams)
11 egg whites

MÉTHODE:

1. In a small pan, heat the butter just until it begins to brown, remove the pan from the heat.
2. Toast the ground hazelnuts for about 3 minutes - just until the aroma begins to be released, allow to cool.
3. In the bowl of your mixer, blend the sugar, flour, ground almonds and the ground hazelnuts.
4. Add the egg whites to the dry ingredients, and beat until the egg whites incorporate air and the batter becomes somewhat stiff.
5. As the batter stiffens, incorporate the melted butter.
6. Let the batter sit for 15 minutes.
7. Using a small ladle, pour the batter into the greased molds.
8. Bake in the pre-heated oven for 15 minutes.
9. After baking, place the financier mold on a cooling rack, allow to cool for 15 minutes before depanning.

Voici! Bon appétit!

Thanks Louis! I believe my stomach is grumbling.


Jhesu+Marie
de Brantigny

No comments: